As could possibly be expected from the former child star, justin bieber clothes has received many a fashion transformation over the years. He’s done quiffed hair and a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented using a floppy fringe as well as a suit. But even though some of his attempts to toughen up are already met with derision, the latest part in the Biebvolution is definitely bang on the fashion money. There has been ripped jeans. We have seen oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts using the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, there has been plenty of layering – and plenty of raw edges.
Not everybody gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s reaction to his Marques’Almeida moment at the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) but the latest incarnation of Bieber ties into a mood which is sweeping through menswear – and may even be arriving within your wardrobe soon.
Simply speaking: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge using a tracksuit top as well as a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You might dub it a hot mess males, but the one thing you will never think of it is hipster – manicured beards ought to be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber hoodie wore towards the teen awards, is integral towards the increase in demand for denim and also of jeans which are hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the type of look which enables parents eyeroll and say: “You given money for that? Do want me to get proper hems on those?”, it has legs. Elsewhere on the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent out herringbone trousers which had been roughly cut off on the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing going on; up close, the holes during these knits are layered across a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a kind of anti-luxury luxury – is there in all of the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy certainly is the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a good reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, just about the most in-demand photographers popular, these pictures have got a typical masculine rawness. In a short video to accompany this shoot, you may also see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories to the latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is that this Man?, even though the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days worth of facial hair.
Haute scruff was also all over one of the more talked-about moments of the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, that was kept in a Chinese restaurant variously referred to as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that had been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like they had just presented of bed. The majority of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, as in the parcel delivery service); even the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a switch on the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots and a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence popular is just set to carry on: following the show, certainly one of Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, was to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is yet another from the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has been backed by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel as if a nerdy carry out Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, although not.
In fact, if all else fails, the real key to this particular look is really a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for males. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for females (see British Vogue’s December issue, by which several tracktops are featured included in the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a lttle bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up summarize this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, as it ticks the 1990s box – as well as the dexqpkyy16 is now the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the alternative of all justin bieber clothing which has been the headline news in menswear within the last few years. And finally, it’s easy to chuck on, doesn’t appear to be you’ve made an attempt but suggests you know what’s going on. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
Since you’re here …
… there exists a small favour to inquire about. More and more people are reading the Guardian than ever before but advertising revenues across the media are falling fast. And unlike many news organisations, we haven’t create a paywall – we would like to keep our journalism as open since we can. So you can realize why we need to demand your help. The Guardian’s independent, investigative journalism takes considerable time, money and work to generate. But perform it because we feel our perspective matters – since it might well be your perspective, too.