The industry of RC has many different facets; there’s really something for everyone. One of many areas I’ve set my sights on mastering may be the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned when it comes to driving sliding is preferable to grip, more power does not necessarily mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. And once 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I had to scoop one approximately see what all of the hoopla was using this type of drifter.
WHO Causes It To Be: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any level of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Just How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for quick learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning while watching motor or about the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?A lot of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips off of the roller bearing
This drifter has a great deal opting for it; well manufactured, plenty of pretty aluminum and rolls in at a very economical price. Handling is nice also when you become accustomed to the kit setup, and it accepts a very number of body styles. There’s also a lot of tunability for people who want to tinker, so this car should grow together with you as your skills do.
The D4’s chassis is a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It offers cutouts at the base for the front and back diffs to peek through as well as a bazillion countersunk holes. Most of these are used for mounting such things as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are actually a good number of left empty. They can be employed to control chassis flex, however, not with all the stock top deck; an optional you have to be bought. The design is similar to a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and lastly the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Things are readily available and replaceable with just a few turns of some screws.
? Besides a few interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is much like a touring car’s. One particular A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are employed, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to increase them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to manage camber and roll while the front uses an intriguing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This method allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and allows for some extreme camber settings.
? A very important factor that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious volume of steering throw they have got. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and as close to the edges from the chassis as you possibly can. This results in a massive 65° angle, enough to control the D4 in even the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend almost all of their time sideways, I wanted a good servo to take care of the ceaseless countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Whilst not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I needed it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 works with a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A huge, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, where the front and back belts meet. Pulleys keep your front belt high above the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the energy to the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to permit utilizing a assortment of different wheel and tire combos.
? To present the D4 some beauty, I prefered 3Racing Wraith parts body from ABC Hobby. It is a beautiful replica with this car and included a slick list of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the way to paint it, having said that i do remember a technique I used a while back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white in the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the outer using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the last result … plus it was easy. That’s good because I’m an extremely impatient painter!
Around The TRACK
For this test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter down on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I had been heading there to do an image shoot for an additional vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and acquire some sideways action?
The steering around the D4 is very amazing. When I mentioned earlier, the throw can be a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference through the parts. The CVD’s can change that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Though it does look a bit funny with all the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a wonderful job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the proper direction. This can be, partly, because of the awesome handling of the D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not really about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I am aware that sounds odd, but when you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your respective drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack and also the sideways motion through any corner. I found Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to complete that make controlled, smooth throttle adjustments to change the angle of your D4 where and when I needed. Sliding within a little shallow? Add more throttle to get the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a bit along with the D4 would get back in line. It’s all an issue of ? nesse, as well as the Novak system is ideal for simply that. I have done have to be a bit creative using the install from the system because of limited space on the chassis, but overall it determined great.
After driving connected touring cars for a time, it can have a little getting used to knowing that a car losing grip and sliding is the correct way throughout the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control after you get it, it’s beautiful. Getting a car and pitching it sideways through a sweeper, all the while keeping the nose pointed in at less than two or three inches from the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of control thing, and the D4 can it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you feel like you require more of something anything there’s a lot of points to adjust. I actually enjoyed the auto with all the kit setup plus it was just a point of a battery pack or two before I used to be swinging the back across the hairpins, throughout the carousel and to and fro throughout the chicane. I never had the chance to strap battery about the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking towards.
There’s not much you could do to damage a drift car they’re not really going all that fast. I did, however, offer an problem with the top belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top level deck. Throughout the initial run, it suddenly felt just like the D4 acquired just a little drag brake. I kept from it, looking to overcome the issue with driving, but soon was required to RPM Traxxas slash parts it into actually give it a look. In the build, the belt slips in a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is backed up by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted such things as the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square in the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, once the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide away from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it will come in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a prolonged screw with a few 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little more. Problem solved.